Friday, 7 December 2012

Cauliflower cheese

This picture shows where my cauliflower cheese will go. I'd completely forgotten about this meal, for almost a year. Never again.

My version of cauliflower cheese has slices of halloumi on top, and cubed fried potatoes or maybe even sweet potatoes in the top, then bread crumbs sprinkled to form the top most layer. Cayenne pepper is good to throw in too.

I would put down the recipe for how to make the cheese sauce, but it doesn't always go that well for me, so perhaps you should look that one up yourselves. I can tell you not to stop stirring and that corn flour and maize flour do not have the same physical properties. That is all.


Monday, 29 October 2012

Simple Vegetarian Curry

If you're a vegetarian, and you don't eat curry, you're missing out. I'm using curry in the loosest term, because that's the easiest to cook. You can go more authentic if you follow a recipe. But every time I do, I get my amchoor mixed up with my asafoetida and it takes ages. So here's the simple version...

Chop and onion and fry it. Even if you don't like onions. This is a bit of a ritual, and it signals to your entire household that tasty food is coming - sort of like an appetiser that you inhale. Garlic should go in at some point here too.

Add mustard seeds and other small things that pop in oil at some point around now, perhaps before the onion. I always forget to do this before the onion, it's become a bit of a ritual, in fact. If you've ever followed a recipe and done your homework on what methi seeds actually are, then it's easy to have a jar of generic indian frying seeds around. I have a jar labelled panch puran, or something, which is a mix of all the seeds so I don't have to choose which I use. They're worth finding from an Indian cash and carry, or in fact most newsagents these days if you live in London. That sounded bad. Like I think there's something wrong with foreigners. There's nothing wrong with foreigners, but it is true that most corner shop news agent type places round here have a decent spice section and I think that's a good thing. I once went to a newsagent in Huddesfield for a sandwich on the go, expecting the sort of sandwich that keeps for a week in the fridge, and was delighted to find fresh samosas instead. I gave the man a big smile and he gave me one right back. It was beautiful. Onwards. The seeds are good, but they're not that important. If it stops you making curry, skip this step. If you see them, then any will do.

If you're interested I found this link about panch puran on the fat free vegetarian blog. I admire the sentiment while at the same time pouring scorn upon the very idea. The recipe looks healthy and tasty though, for those who must have both. There's a lovely photograph of the seeds you might use: a useful reference in the supermarket. They'll definitely have some of them.

So you've got a frying pan of onions browning nicely. With or without seeds. Now it's time for the spices. Some people don't like spicy food. But that's fine, it doesn't need to stop you eating curry. The basis for many sorts of curry is an equal mix - I tend you add about a teaspoon of each - of ground cumin seeds, ground coriander seeds and garam masala. I say this like my Indian grandmother told me, I really don't know how much you're supposed to put in, I just cook it and eat it, it's fine. The point is, these spices don't include chilli powder. You can put that in separately, or use another curry powder blend that does have chilli in it in smaller amounts, and thus we have control of how spicy our food is, without having to limit our tasty, tasty spices. If you don't like spiciness at all, don't put any chilli in. It'll still be tasty.

Now on to the veg. Anything. Seriously. Even mangos. It'll probably work. So today I put in a tin of chick peas and a chopped courgette. You can make specific curries - like cauliflower and chickpea, which works really well - which are dry and rely on the moisture of the ingredients. Some others will use chopped tomatoes to give more sauciness. This is what I felt like doing today - and it's a good basis for any curry which features meat too.

So we've got the signature ingredients of our curry, it's got all the essentials in like the onions, garlic, spices. Now on to the finishing touches. There's a lot of scope here. When you eat curry in a restaurant, take a look at what you're eating. Most curries you find, and certainly all meat curries, will have a fair amount of fat in. The traditional ingredient here - on top of the animal fat with meat curries - is ghee. As far as I can tell this is some sort of buttery vegetable fat, but if you're confused, just use butter. How much butter? Ahhhh. This is the best bit. When you cook a piece of meat in a curry, you would be surprised, blinded even, by how much fat comes out of it. Back to our putative restaurant scenario, and you'll notice that there is a generous layer of fat or oil sitting on top of your food. Don't worry, this is what makes it taste good. It's not great, but you don't eat out all the time, so it's ok, we're not going to put that much in, even if it turns out to be the secret to REALLY GOOD indian cooking. I'm pretty sure the basis to all chinese cooking is a generous helping of sesame oil, sugar and salt - preferably of the monosodium glutamate variety in the form of a pre-bottled generic chinese goo. I know this because I have chinese relatives; nothing without a touch of oyster sauce. By the same token, I can imagine my ghee theory is plausible. I have no idea of course. Getting back to the point, as this is a vegetarian curry, I think you're allowed to add as much butter as would take you to the sort of levels that would come out of a piece of meat. This is a lot. So in fact, even if you're putting what seems like too much in, you're still pretty virtuous compared to the meat eating people. It's not ok, but it's sort of ok.

Lastly salt. I could recommend the MSG at this point, in the name of fusion cooking, but even I can't bring myself to do that. Although I did buy a bag of it in a Chinese supermarket once. A cook in Ethiopia enlightened me to the practise of frying up a load of vegetables with a stock cube, and ever since, I've added stock powder to my curries rather than plain old boring salt. I recommend this, although as I forgot to do with the fat, I caution against getting used to these practises on a regular basis. One day I'm going to pay. I'm sure of it. This is the main thought that keeps me riding my bicycle through winter. As if not becoming overweight will somehow prevent me dying from a heart attack. Best not to think about it.

So that's it. Eat it with rice. Eat it with a poppadom, or even those amazing frozen parathas you find. But don't make a habit of it.



Monday, 10 September 2012

Boiled Eggs with Soldiers for Breakfast


Eggs for breakfast! So simple, and tasty and filling and for some reason I never think of eating them. Also, I always have to look up how to get them soft boiled. Delia online gives the following method, and it seems to work...

Put enough simmering water in a saucepan to cover the eggs by 1 cm.

Simmer for 1 minute.

Remove the pan and let the eggs sit for 6 minutes if you like a slightly wobbly but set white, and 7 minutes if you like you don't.

Monday, 3 September 2012

Sponge cake with fresh raspberries

When I was a child, my uncle used to grow raspberries. He'd get so many, that it wasn't possible to eat them all before they went all squidgey, so he'd freeze them. When you get raspberries out of the freezer and put sugar on them, you end up with this sharp and sweet sugary syrup, with raspberries in. I almost prefer it to fresh raspberries, and yet I haven't eaten them like this for over 10 years. I pledge today that I will do something about this.

Related to this, are cooked raspberries. Like in raspberry pie, which is another way to solve the first world problem that is too many raspberries. 

The other day, someone brought us a sponge cake which she'd put raspberries on before she'd cooked. Presumably she put sugar on too. I thoroughly recommend it. This is what it looks like if you leave it alone for a moment while you get your camera.


Monday, 27 August 2012

Salad Dressing

I've been meaning to actually write down some proportions of ingredients for a basic salad dressing so that when I really need it to be acceptable, I won't have any surprises. I tried making more than usual in one go once, and it turned out all greasy. Horrible. So, here's a recipe for salad dressing. It's not great, but it's something to build on.

120ml White Wine Vinegar
120ml Olive Oil
Some herbs
More salt that you would think is necessary, like a 5p coins area in a cupped hand
2 teaspoons of french mustard
1 chopped shallot either in the dressing or on the salad
as much pepper as you can be bothered to grind

This is what my salad looks like today:


You know you've arrived when you think it's worth posting a photograph of what your salad looks like today.

Monday, 30 April 2012

Fried Chicken Philosophy

Recipes do have their place, especially when baking. However, I would rather try to build up a sense, through experimentation and getting things wrong, of how things should be, what might work with what and so on. This usually means that when I cook in someone else's kitchen, everything catches fire and is raw on the inside. I am capable of making mistakes. With the food on this blog, I try to stay away from measurements, and not just because I am too lazy to write them down.


This approach is most apparent in my fried chicken recipe. The batter is never the same. Sometimes it's REALLY spicy and although it's generally crispy, it does vary. This means that when it all comes together it's a unique and special moment when the stars align - a testament to the impermanence of human (and chicken) existence. I like things this way, although if I failed more often than succeeded I might feel different.

So, here are a few things that can go into fried chicken batter, many of them came out of an intensely chicken orientated period of my life when I became obsessed with replicating the colonel's secret recipe without the animal welfare issues.

Possible ingredients:

Corn flour, rice flour and bread flour mixed.
Garlic powder, ginger powder, cayenne pepper, chili powder, mustard powder.
Salt, pepper, baking powder, a small amount of sugar.
Mixed herbs of various types.

I've heard that "the colonel" soaks his chicken overnight in monosodium glutamate enhanced water to lock in moisture and artificial flavour. This most likely libel, however I can't imagine it wouldn't taste good. A soak in water for half an hour may or may not keep the chicken extra moist.

Coat the chicken in corn flour and spices - lots of spices - I find this helps secure the spicy flavour without getting lost in the batter. The corn flour layer seems to seal in the moisture of the chicken. Next comes the batter. I make the batter by mixing together half and half corn flour and normal flour with everything else - enough spices and herbs that you can see they're there. I add water until I get a consistency that is gloopy enough to leave a good layer on the chicken, but still clearly a liquid. The gloopiness factor of the batter determines how thick the batter is when its sitting on the chicken - but go too gloopy and you'll end with with doughy chicken. This requires experimentation.

When I was young, I would add more water, then add more flour then add more water, constantly overshooting the sweet spot, resulting in many kilograms of batter. The key is that when you mix in the flour or water, it takes a while to reach where it's going.

Sugar is a new addition to the recipe. If you like things super crispy bordering on hard, put a bit more sugar in, perhaps up to two teaspoons for 12 pieces of chicken. The sugar seems to caramelise for a very durable crunch that survives even in the fridge.

To cook a million pieces of chicken, which is roughly how many we eat, we get a production line going dipping the battered chicken in a deep fat fryer for a minute or less, just enough to harden the batter so it no longer drips. After that, they all go on a wire rack or two to be cooked in the oven - quite hot, around 200 degrees, for about half an hour usually does it, but it's quite forgiving. Poke with a sharp stick and see what colour the chicken juice is to know that it's cooked.




Saturday, 28 April 2012

Smoked meat sandwich from Quebec

There are signs all over French Canada proclaiming smoked meat. They are not inaccurate. This sandwich had two types of meat, I think beef and ham, with mustard on lightly toasted bread. It was cut very thinly, but built up in many layers. I need to become friends with the ham slicing lady in the single remaining unpretentious butchers in London (in Chrisp St market, tower hamlets). In fact, I need to visit her today.


Gnocchi with spinach and mozzarella

Clearly I need to work on my presentation, and I've also got a bit to learn about choosing steak too I think. This one was a bit chewy. However, put some toasted pine nuts, spinach , mozzarella and parsley on some gnocchi and you can't go far wrong.


Wednesday, 25 April 2012

Fish kettle

It's possible to rent a fish kettle from Morrisons, among other places, in which a whole salmon can be poached. Cut it to size before it's cooked to avoid flicking boiling hot fish sauce everywhere. Just so you know.

Poutine

This is poutine, it's cheese curds on fries covered in gravy. It looks terrible, but it makes death by malnutrition an impressive feat in Canada. The cheese curds are soft but squeaky, like halloumi cheese is squeaky. No one I was travelling with really liked it, apart from me, but we did get served a variation made with spinach and paneer cheese on fries which was very popular. So the take home message is, get some fries, get some cheese that retains its shape when heated, put said cheese on said fries with some sort of gravy out curry like sauce and eat. Sell it on street corners in Shoreditch at 1am and you'll clean up.

Toast, thick cut ham and egg

This blog is partly a catalogue to browse, so I feel I should include the basics. As if I could ever forget...

Beef rolled round spinach and cheese

I can't even remember where I saw this but when I did, I thought, "what a good idea"... I've got a cast iron skillet with grill pan ridges coming in the post from Amazon. My sister recently demonstrated that a cast iron ridged pan is the only way to cook steak, so I'll be interested to find out how my £7.50 offering fares against the ostentatious le creuset. Probably we'll be about even after I've seasoned it over a couple of years. Hmmm.

Tuesday, 24 April 2012

A Declaration

I like to cook food, but not as much as I like to eat food. When I don't have anything else to do, I cook food and then I eat food, and then I feel better. However, there is a lot of food in the world, so much so that I am unable to hold all that food in my mind at once. So when the ennui of a Sunday mid afternoon knaws at my soul, and the Sunday afternoon panic buying in Tescos reaches fever pitch, I will not need to exercise my imagination to decide what food to cook. I will refer to this blog with its handy labels and Google (TM) powered search function, and I will cast out the hollow ache of the human condition, and replace it with food of the highest calibre.